Third Appalachian Trail Blog... from Danny

After leaving Shenandoah National Park for a quick trip to Texas for the funeral of one of my cousins, we traveled to the southern start of the Appalachian Trail (AT). The AT almost has two trailheads: The Approach Trail that begins at Amicalola Falls State Park that I did and the Official Trailhead. Some hikers feel that you aren’t a real AT hiker unless you do the Approach Trail while others feel that it is a nice hike but not part of the AT.

The trail goes up these stairs to the top the falls and continues on to the Official Trailhead

 

Throughout much of the Georgia section I hiked with Byron and Evelyn Morris with Shirley shuttling us to the daily trailhead and picking us up at the end of each day’s hike.  Byron and Evelyn are cyclists that I have known since the 1980’s who live near the southern terminus of the AT. We stayed at Byron and Evelyn’s house for about a week. Aside from being cyclists they are Returned Peace Corps Volunteers from Mauritania. Their stories about Africa inspired me to join Peace Corps. (http://peacecorps.gov)

Thirty miles from the southern terminus the AT passes through Neel’s Gap, the home of Mountain Crossings, which sell all kinds of supplies for backpacking. I bought a pair of trail runners to replace the Keen sandals that I had hiked in for over two hundred miles. They did a wonderful job of ensuring that the shoes fit. I really craved ice cream, but I was a little early as their new ice cream freezer was still waiting to be uncrated. 

There is no shortage of oddities 

These guys even carried folding chairs. It was amazing what people carried and others left in shelters after they decided that their loads were just too heavy.

In Georgia trail signs like this were common.

This was my first camp

Much of the AT passes along tops of ridges. Views like this was both awesome and common.

In this area you could almost lose the trail in the leaves.

This through hiker is eighty.

Although the shelter had an electric socket it lacked electricity. I am sure that this socket has provided hikers with lots of hours of something to talk about.

After three or four nights of camping I reached Fontana Dam, which was the beginning of Great Smokey Mountains National Park. Just outside of the Park is the Hike Inn, which is a motel just for hikers. I resupplied there and spent the night. In the photo are two other hikers.

I ran into these fellows several times during my hike. I made it, the younger of the two, was on his second attempt to do the trail. He was even a later riser than me and often got into camp like a phantom at dark. The other was Old New York. He had just retired. We seemed to end up in the same shelter either for lunch or overnight.

I had just spent a cold rainy night alone in this shelter when this group came in the shelter. I was sure glad to see them. I had become a little too cold the day before helping a hiker who was suffering from hypothermia while waiting for paramedics to arrive and take him off the trail. I was having trouble staying warm myself even though it was one day later. I helped Sunshine and Kenny, the two standing, get their gloves off and I made the group hot tea. ET is the hiker sitting above the other two. From that time each time I ran into either one of them they told whoever was around that I saved them. As soon as the rain had stopped for a while I left the shelter. Walked on to Newfound Gap. Where I hitched a ride into Gatlinburg to spend a couple of days.

This was a typical Shelter scene in Great Smokey Mountain National Park. The shelters were crowded as every one was required to say in a shelter or camp near a shelter. The large number of people was fun and importantly made the shelter warmer.

The fellow on the right is Jason. He had yet to acquire a trail name. He had just retired from the Army and was looking for what was next in his life. I suggested Peace Corps. He seemed to have the right temperament for it. Maybe he will consider it further. I met several veterans who had either just retired or they had finished several years in the service and decided to leave. All that I met were using the AT as a transition point between the service and what ever is next.

This is Little Janie from Greenville, Texas. This is her third AT attempt over a period of several years. Her determination was unbelievable.

While Shirley traveled to Canada for twelve days I grew a beard. Shaving wasn’t practical. It felt good, but as soon as Shirley got back and I got to a motel I shaved off the beard. 

A fellow hiker said that finishing the AT without getting hurt is like winning the lottery: A lot depends on chance. In Great Smokey Mountains National Park I saw hoof prints of a horse that was brought in to take out a hiker who had a stress fracture in her leg and could not longer walk. I met several hikers who had to leave the trail due to damaged knees. One went out with strained ankles. A close trail friend who looked like an awesome athlete had a heart attack and died. The accumulation of too many poorly placed steps on pointed rocks caused my left foot to become bruised and swollen. After a few days of rest I decided to leave the trail before it became worse or my altered gait hurt my knees and/or ankles.

Photo is by “Bert Chopper” Allen, who is another trail friend, of George “Highlander” Grant. Highlander had already hiked the Pacific Crest Trail and was 81. He was an awesome hiker and trail friend. He was from Scotland but lived in Australia. He passed away while coming into town to resupply about the time I left the trail.

I had a wonderful trip: I hiked 450 miles in beautiful country; met so many interesting and awesome hikers; lost seven or eight pounds; and visited with many friends who lived near the trail. Shirley drove a phenomenal amount of miles ferrying me back and forth and she too met some wonderful people. She became well know on the trail as people started to look for her at various pick up points and took great delight in teasing her when they met her. Currently, I am back to bicycling. Cycling is so much easier on the body and I enjoy it as much as hiking, if not more.

While I was gone ...

Can you imagine the back and forth that occurred while I was away in Canada for 10 days and Danny was backpacking in the Great smokey Mountains National Park? I wish I could. Unfortunately the cell coverage was almost nonexistent except when he got off the trail and went into town for supplies and R&R (read that to mean laundry, hot shower, and a good nights sleep in a wonderful bed!) Spot worked well and gave me much reassurance as I watched his progress, when I had internet coverage. Tethering doesn't work very well (read SLOW) when your cell service doesn't have 3G, 4G or even LTE, just extended service and only 2 bars at that.

I had a great trip to Canada to be a part of my nephews graduation from university.

 Cory 

What a wonderful milestone that was.

 Yes that is snow in the background

 We weren't sure if we would be able to travel when we woke to this.

We ran into snow and cold temperatures in Saskatchewan but the actual graduation day was sunny, clear skies and warm. Perfect for the day. Roads were clear for the most part all across.

 The visiting family

L to R: me, Don, Shauna, Cory, mom, dad, and G'ma Margaret

Along the way we stopped at a museum in Saskatchewan. Very interesting and I 

 found my Hummer!!!!!

I left Edmonton in the sunshine, landed in Minneapolis in very cold, rain and then landed in Charlotte in cold temperatures, the rain having stopped earlier in the evening. The next morning was cloudy, cold, windy but no rain as I drove to meet up with Danny once again on the trail.

Oh the stories I heard once we connected. My mind is filled to overload and they are hard to piece together and remember. I only hope that Danny can and does when he writes.

The Smokies - they are beautiful (Can't wait to see Danny's photos.) and the mountains make their own weather as seen yesterday when I picked him up. On top of the mountain (the Bald) the wind was hurricane gales mixed with rain/sleet and lots of fog. The cold penetrated through everything, especially if you were at all damp. Stories later came about big men being blown over by the gales as they attempted to cross over the mountain. We can only hope that all that were on the trail hunkered down and kept warm for the night and next day rather than trying to continuing on.

The People/fellow hikers - here the stories are wonderful but in fact, when repeated without knowledge, lose much of the significance and wonder. The receptionist in the hotel, last night said that the most thru-hikers ever are on the trail this year. Another hiker whom we had breakfast with this morning, indicated that so far, there are ~1800 thru-hikers on the trail NOBO. You can well imagine the stories that are here. So far Danny hasn't run into any RPCVs (returned PC  volunteers) but lots of retired military people. Hikers from all over the world but an abundance of Germans - they had a film produced and shown on TV in Germany which has led to many of them coming over to do the hike. And then of course, first thing this morning, at breakfast, I met some of the ones that I had met and gotten to know while sitting at the pick-up points.

The foliage is now out in all it's full glory. The greens are fantastic as you drive down the roads. Gone is the brown and beiges, all replaced by new green grasses and leaves.

Of course, the colors were heightened by the fact of the rain and mist. The roads are just a twisting and turning as I remember and I am once again back into 1st and 2nd gear mode.

And look at what I returned to ... can't leave him alone for a day and he goes and does something totally out of character.

 Not sure if I like it or not, but will reserve judgement as after a few days I am sure it will become second nature. We shall see.

He saw a black bear mommy with 2 cubs ... the deer are almost tame when around hikers. One hiker said it is because they can smell the salt on the dirty, smelly bodies and need it themselves. He hiked and camped in all manner of weather, excepting snow. Shelter life was rank and often raunchy. And always the people ...

more to come ... photos to be added ... but do give me a couple of days!

Seems like only a short while but ...

Since my last writing, I have traveled a long ways, visited with friends and even taken a trip out of the country, but still, it seems like only a short time has passed.

Danny continues to do very well on the trail. From our start on top of Springer Mountain, our vistas have changed daily. And how different from what we were seeing farther up north. 
We have gone from naked trees to budding trees,   to a full complement of foliage: from wide open vistas 
to the renown green tunnel. We have followed the blooming of the spring flowers and the blossoming of the rhododendrons. And through it all the people ... even though I am dropping off and picking up, I too have become known on the AT and I, in turn, have made friends, even if superficially.

While in the northern part of Georgia we stayed with friends who welcomed us into their home, put up with the comings and goings, and accompanied us on our daily outings. Due to distance constraints we missed being able to visit with some very good friends in Blue Ridge. To them I say, "we will be back!"

 Danny and friends in N George heading out for the day's hiking

At many of the put-in and pick-up points, we came across Trail Angels. These are people who go out of their way to help the hikers on the AT. At this particular point, way up in the mountains, on roads that required 1st gear and 5mph speeds,

 are you sure that you are going the right way?????

 this man and his friend (ex-marines) had set up a grill and were serving all who came grilled hot dogs, sodas, snacks, fruit, dog food (I think), and cigarettes. As I was waiting across the road, he was heavily visited and he made a point of talking with each and every one of the hikers individually. Amazing...

 I sent Danny over rather than coming to the car after making plans for our next meet up point.

One of the stops was an outfitters/hostel, the first major one on the NOBO trail. Here the trail actually goes right through the building.  Man, are the birds abundant here?  - guess they are used to getting lots of things to eat...  but wait, not birds, but  yes, people change them out here after walking for _____ miles since the start. What to do with the old ones, well, this is one thing that can be done.

Another day on the trail...  

The AT does not follow the valleys much, but rather the ridges, going up and down the mountains. 

Unfortunately the end point is always a downhill hike and the beginning a long uphill hill. 

One day was scheduled for heavy rains so we took a day and visited the John C Campbell Folk School where we wandered in and out of classes that were in session while exploring the campus. Of course no visit is complete until one visits the gift shop where the class-produced items are sold. All manner of classes are offered in weekly sessions.

...blacksmithing had it's own building, designated by the heat radiating from the building and the hanging hammer over the door.

 where whimsical yet useful to some, items were produced 

 ... a cooking school where basics to gourmet classes were scheduled.

oven for baking a very heavy but tasty bread made by another of the many classes

Areas for parking were found after miles and miles of uphill forest service roads, on top of a mountain with which the AT intersected ... A good pick up and drop off place ...

 the roads are pretty good for early spring although the rains leave deep ruts from water run off and 4WDs that have to test their mettle in and after the rains.  

 ... because of the many days of heavy rainfall, there are often impromptu waterfalls above the deeply rutted roads...

Soon we are out reasonable range for driving back and forth and we once again start our life on the road. Although it is many days hiking from where we were, the drive is probably only 40-50 miles north. We find a wonderful rejuvenated motel in a small town without offered breakfast. It overlooks a lake with quietening views. And then there is a wonderful deli that serves a breakfast buffet that would rival any in a larger city.

Day by day we delve deeper north. This end of the AT is very mountainous although not the highest by far. Each day brings hiking of major up and downs with very few level walking spots. The trail silhouette can seem daunting when viewing but Danny says it isn't that bad. He has been averaging 10-16 miles per day. When driving that doesn't seem like a lot but hiking it will take all day. What an opportunity this is.

 This may be so, but in fact, Danny has walked a total of ~420 miles to date and I have driven, including the trip out to Pennsylvania, the  return trip back to Dallas, to all the auxiliary site seeing sites, and the return trip to Charlotte NC's airport, a total of 8200 miles. 

And so we continue, enjoying the many opportunities afforded us and the chance to be surrounded by the quiet, peaceful beauty of this great land. The Great Smokey Mountain NP is our next big hurtle, stayed tuned as it will be Danny's turn to write - I will be in Canada.